13 Bushcraft Shelter Ideas (UK): DIY Tarp & Natural Builds

Caught out by sideways rain on Dartmoor, boggy ground in the Peaks or a biting wind in the Cairngorms? Choosing and pitching the right shelter can be the difference between a cracking night out and a cold, wet slog. Whether you carry a tarp or prefer to work with what the woods give you, you’ll need ideas that actually work in UK conditions—quick to build, stable in wind, waterproof against relentless drizzle, and mindful of access, fire rules and Leave No Trace.

This guide rounds up 13 practical bushcraft shelter ideas for the UK, from ultra-fast tarp pitches to robust natural builds. For each one you’ll get: when to use it, what you need, clear steps, and UK-specific tips on permissions, fire and safety—plus a suggested visual so you can see the shape before you start. Ideal for beginners and seasoned hands alike, it’s a toolbox you can deploy year-round. First up: a fast, waterproof tarp lean‑to you can pitch in minutes.

1. Take a Hike UK tarp lean-to (fast, waterproof)

When you need instant, weatherproof cover in the woods, the tarp lean‑to is hard to beat. Among the simplest bushcraft shelter ideas, it excels in wind and persistent UK drizzle, gives you a good working porch, and pairs perfectly with a small cooking fire out front. Keep it compact and low in foul weather; raise and widen it in settled conditions.

When to use it

Use this when daylight is fading, rain is moving in, or you want a quick base that stays airy and safe to cook beside. It shines in mixed woodland, hedgerows and belt shelter where two sturdy trees are available and ground isn’t waterlogged.

What you need

For a reliable, quiet pitch in British conditions, aim for robust kit and simple anchor points.

• Tarp (≈3×3 m): Square works best.
• Cordage (paracord): 10–15 m for a ridgeline and guylines.
• Stakes/pegs or sticks: 4–6, plus a few thumb‑thick toggles.
• Groundsheet/foam pad: To insulate you from the ground.
• Optional: Trekking pole for extra lift; small folding saw for deadwood pegs.

Step-by-step build

Set your line with the wind at your back and the open face downwind for comfort and smoke control.

1. Run a ridgeline between two trees at shoulder height; use a taut‑line or trucker’s hitch.
2. Clip or tie the tarp’s back edge to the ridgeline; create a slight overhang to form a drip line.
3. Stake the rear corners down first, keeping the rear panel steep for runoff.
4. Pull the front edge forward and down at roughly 45°; stake the front corners.
5. Add two front guylines for tension; drop the pitch lower if wind rises.
6. Bed down: clear lumps, lay a groundsheet and at least 4–6 cm of natural insulation if available.
7. If using a fire, place it a few feet in front and build a simple reflector wall of logs or rocks to bounce heat back.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

Know the spot, keep it low‑impact, and respect local rules.

• Access: Get landowner permission on private woodland; wild camping/fires have restrictions—check local bylaws and park guidance.
• Fires: Keep fires outside the shelter; use a reflector. Never light fires under rock overhangs and fully extinguish with water, then cold‑hand check.
• Wind and deadwood: Avoid widow‑makers (dead limbs) overhead; pitch on flat, free‑draining ground away from gullies and rising streams.
• Leave No Trace: Use dead‑and‑down wood, protect bark with tree straps, and restore the site on departure.

Visual to include

Side‑on diagram: two trees with a ridgeline, tarp sloping at ~45°, rear edge tight, front staked, small fire and simple log reflector positioned a few feet in front.

2. Tarp A-frame (two-tree tent pitch)

Think “tent without poles.” The classic A‑frame gives you a snug, symmetrical shelter with better wind shedding than a lean‑to and dependable rain runoff down both sides—ideal when UK weather can’t make up its mind. It’s one of the most reliable bushcraft shelter ideas to master.

When to use it

Choose the A‑frame when showers and wind shifts are likely, or when you want a smaller footprint and more privacy than a lean‑to. It excels in mixed woodland with two solid trees and works in light to moderate winds if pitched low and tight.

What you need

Keep your kit simple and tree‑friendly for a fast, quiet setup.

• Tarp (≈3×3 m or 3×2.5 m): Square or rectangular both work.
• Cordage: 10–15 m ridgeline plus 4–6 short guylines.
• Stakes/pegs or carved sticks: 6–8 total.
• Tree straps/protectors: To prevent bark damage.
• Groundsheet/sleep mat: For insulation and comfort.
• Optional: Trekking pole or stick to porch one end.

Step-by-step build

Set for drainage and shelter, then tension evenly for a drum‑tight pitch.

1. Pick two healthy trees 2.5–3.5 m apart; clear the ground of lumps and sharp debris.
2. Tie a ridgeline between trees (trucker’s hitch + taut‑line); set height from knee to hip—lower for foul weather.
3. Centre the tarp over the ridgeline; clip or tie the ridge loops to the line or simply drape it.
4. Stake the four base corners to form a neat A; keep panels steep for reliable runoff.
5. Add two end guylines per side to fine‑tune tension; re‑check the ridge is straight.
6. Optional: Porch one end with a pole for airflow; drop low again if wind rises.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

Respect access and weather, and keep impact minimal.

• Access: Seek landowner permission on private land; check local bylaws for wild camping and fires.
• Fire: Keep any fire well outside the doorway; never under rock overhangs. Use a small reflector and fully extinguish.
• Condensation: Vent one end or raise a corner slightly; avoid pitching over boggy ground.
• Safety: Avoid widow‑makers, rising stream beds and exposed hill crests. Use tree straps and restore the site before leaving.

Visual to include

Side view: two trees with a ridgeline; tarp draped evenly as a tent; four corners staked; optional porch pole on one end, arrows showing rain shedding down both sides.

3. Tarp plow point (storm wedge)

When the forecast screams gusts and horizontal rain, the plow point (aka storm wedge) is your go‑to. It uses a single high anchor and pins the rest tight to ground, creating a low, aerodynamic wedge with a small, protected doorway. Among bushcraft shelter ideas, it’s fast, stable in wind and brilliant for shedding UK drizzle.

When to use it

Pick this when you only have one solid tree, when space is tight, or when wind protection matters more than headroom. It’s ideal along hedgerows, in sparse woodland or on the edge of open ground, and copes well with shifting showers if pitched low and tight.

What you need

Aim for tough fabric, solid anchors and bark‑friendly rigging.

• Tarp (≈3×3 m): Square works best, but rectangles work too.
• Cordage: 6–10 m for the main tie‑out and short guylines.
• Stakes/pegs or sticks: 5–7, plus a couple of smooth toggles.
• Tree strap/protector: Prevents bark damage at the anchor point.
• Groundsheet/sleep mat: For insulation; add natural fill if available.

Step-by-step build

Face the “nose” into the wind for maximum stability and rain shedding.

1. Choose a healthy tree; check overhead for dead limbs and orient the doorway leeward.
2. Tie one tarp corner (or the midpoint of one edge) to the tree at chest height using a strap and secure knot (bowline/trucker’s hitch on a toggle).
3. Stretch the two adjacent edges to the ground to form a wedge; stake them low and tight at 45° from the anchor.
4. Pull the remaining corner back as your floor/door; stake it to create a small lip that helps keep drip and splash out.
5. Add mid‑panel guylines or extra stakes along hems to reduce flap and tighten the skin.
6. In rising wind, drop the tree tie‑in lower, add rocks over hems, and close the door corner down.
7. Lay a groundsheet and at least 4–6 cm of dry grass/leaves or a mat to cut ground chill.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

Keep it legal, low‑impact and storm‑smart.

• Access: Get landowner permission; follow local bylaws for wild camping and fires.
• Fire: Keep any fire outside the wedge; use a small reflector to bounce heat back. Never light fires under rock overhangs and fully extinguish.
• Drainage: Pitch on slightly raised, free‑draining ground; avoid hollows that can flood. No trenching—choose a better spot instead.
• Tree care: Use straps to protect bark and avoid girdling; remove all cordage and restore the site on departure.

Visual to include

Top‑down and side sketch: one corner/edge tied to a single tree, two adjacent edges staked to form a low windward “nose,” rear corner staked as the door/floor with optional rocks along hems.

4. Super shelter (clear sheet, mylar and fire reflector)

Cold, damp and breezy? This is where the “super shelter” shines. Popularised by Mors Kochanski, it combines a low frame, a tarp roof/back, a mylar liner and a clear plastic front. A small outside fire and a simple reflector bounce radiant heat through the clear sheet, the mylar traps it, and you get a cosy, controllable micro‑climate without lighting a fire inside.

When to use it

Build this for static or multi‑night camps in cold, wet, or windy conditions when fires are permitted. It’s perfect in mixed UK woodland with abundant deadwood and room to site a small fire safely a few feet in front. Avoid drought, high fire risk, or very exposed ridgelines.

What you need

Keep components simple, durable and tree‑friendly.

• Tarp (≈3×3 m): Roof and back wall for waterproofing.
• Clear plastic sheet: Tough polythene to form the front “window.”
• Mylar/emergency blanket: Reflective liner on the inside back/roof.
• Cordage + tree straps: Ridgeline, tie‑outs, bark protection.
• Stakes/pegs + saplings: For a low A‑frame/lean‑to skeleton.
• Reflector materials: Logs or rocks to build a fire reflector.
• Groundsheet + insulation: Foam mat, dry leaves/grass, pine boughs.
• Clips/toggles: For quick fastening and venting.

Step-by-step build

Set the opening leeward and think drainage, wind and spark control from the start.

1. Rig a low ridgeline between trees and build a sturdy lean‑to/A‑frame skeleton.
2. Pitch the tarp as roof and back wall; keep panels steep and drum‑tight for runoff.
3. Line the inside back/roof with mylar, reflective side facing in; secure edges.
4. Hang the clear sheet as a front curtain, angled slightly outwards to shed drip; leave a small top gap for ventilation.
5. Prepare a small fire pad a few feet in front; build a waist‑high log/rock reflector opposite the shelter to bounce heat.
6. Light a modest, clean fire; tune height and distance so heat radiates in without softening the plastic.
7. Bed out with a groundsheet and at least 4–6 cm of dry insulation to cut ground chill; adjust vents to reduce condensation.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access & bylaws: Get landowner permission; follow local restrictions on wild camping and open fires.
• Fire placement: Keep fires outside; never under rock overhangs. Use a reflector and fully extinguish with water; cold‑hand check.
• Wind & trees: Avoid widow‑makers; pitch on free‑draining ground away from gullies and streams.
• Leave No Trace: Use dead‑and‑down wood, protect bark with straps, pack out plastic/mylar, and restore the site.

Visual to include

Cross‑section diagram: low lean‑to with tarp roof/back, mylar lining inside, clear plastic front “window,” small long fire a few feet in front, and a log/rock reflector bouncing arrows of heat into the shelter.

5. Tarp burrito bivvy (ultra-fast emergency wrap)

If you’re cold, soaked and out of daylight or trees, the tarp burrito bivvy is the quickest life‑saver. You’re simply turning a tarp into a windproof, rain‑shedding wrap with a small vent at the head. It’s not glamorous, but it buys warmth fast and keeps you functional until you can build something better.

When to use it

Use this for emergency stops, treeless moorland, summit rests, or after an unexpected dunking when pitching a full shelter isn’t realistic. It’s also useful for casualty care while you stabilise and plan an evacuation.

What you need

Keep it simple and keep the waterproof layer on the outside.

• Tarp (≈3×3 m or 3×2.5 m): The outer skin.
• Groundsheet/sleep mat: Cuts ground chill.
• Optional mylar blanket: Reflective layer inside the wrap.
• Short cord/elastic bands: To secure a footbox.
• Warm layers/hat: Trap heat you already have.

Step-by-step build

Choose slightly raised, free‑draining ground, clear sharp debris, and get insulation under you first.

1. Lay the tarp as a diamond; put your mat/groundsheet and any dry leaves/grass in the centre.
2. Sit on the centre, boots at the lower point; fold the bottom tip over your feet to make a footbox and secure with a couple of wraps of cord or by tucking under.
3. Pull one side across your body, then the other over the top; lie on the outer edge to pin it.
4. Fold the top point down over shoulders/head but leave a fist‑sized vent by your mouth and nose.
5. In wind, weigh the lower hem with a few smooth stones; keep that head vent open to reduce condensation.
6. If you have a mylar blanket, keep it inside the tarp with the shiny side facing you.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Even for a quick bivvy, ensure you have permission or are within local wild‑camping guidance.
• No fires inside: Keep flames well away from the wrap; never use stoves in or under the burrito.
• Drainage: Avoid hollows, stream beds and boggy patches that can flood overnight.
• Leave No Trace: Pack out any torn plastic/mylar, brush out flattening and restore the spot when you move on.

Visual to include

Overhead sketch: tarp as a diamond, footbox folded up, sides wrapped and pinned under the body, top folded with a clear breathing vent, mat shown beneath.

6. Woodland lean-to (natural debris and boughs)

A classic of British woods, this lean‑to uses what the forest gives you: fallen poles for structure and layers of boughs, bracken, grasses or bark to shed rain and block wind. Among bushcraft shelter ideas it’s quick, low‑tool and easy to scale, and it works brilliantly with a small fire and reflector set outside the opening.

When to use it

Choose this when you’ve got trees and ground debris to hand, need a fast natural build, and want to cook or keep a fire safely outside the living space. It’s ideal in mixed conifer/deciduous woods, hedgerows and the lee of a bank. Go smaller and lower as weather worsens.

What you need

Work with dead‑and‑down materials first; keep it simple, sturdy and wind‑aware.

• Ridgepole: Fallen trunk/sapling long enough for your bed length.
• Supports: Two trees or forked uprights to carry the ridge.
• Rafters: Arm‑thick poles for the roof at ~45°.
• Thatching/insulation: Conifer boughs, dry bracken, grasses, reedmace/cattail leaves; optionally bark slabs from dead birch/poplar.
• Bed material: Dry leaves, fine grass, pine boughs.
• Cordage (optional): For lashing if natural forks aren’t perfect.

Step-by-step build

Start with structure, then seal for water, wind and heat retention.

1. Set a ridgepole between two trees (or on two forked stakes) at about knee‑to‑thigh height, with the open side leeward.
2. Lean rafters on at 45°, tight together; brace with a couple of cross‑pieces if needed.
3. Thatch from the bottom up, overlapping each layer by a third like shingles for runoff. Aim for a thick skin (forearm‑deep or more) for waterproofing/windproofing.
4. Pack the inside with a springy bed: 4–6 cm compacted boughs/leaves, then finer grass on top. Keep shoulders/hips well insulated.
5. Make a small, closable doorway; add a simple drip edge at the eaves by extending the bottom course.
6. Build a small fire a few feet in front and stack a log/rock reflector behind it to bounce heat into the lean‑to. Keep flames outside.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Get landowner permission; follow local bylaws on wild camping and fires.
• Low impact: Use dead‑and‑down wood; don’t strip live bark. Protect trees where you lash and dismantle fully on exit.
• Fire: Never under rock overhangs; fully extinguish with water and cold‑hand check.
• Site safety: Avoid widow‑makers, flood‑prone hollows and exposed crests; pick free‑draining, flat ground.

Visual to include

Side view: low ridge between two trees, rafters at ~45°, thick overlapping thatch from bottom up, insulated bed inside, small outside fire with a log/rock reflector sending heat back into the shelter.

7. Debris hut (insulated A-frame without fire)

If you lost your lighter or fire isn’t permitted, a debris hut is your warmest bet. It’s a compact A‑frame smothered in thick natural insulation that traps body heat. Built small and stuffed full, it can be toasty in freezing conditions without a flame—just remember, door tiny, walls thick, and a deep bed under you.

When to use it

Choose this for cold, wet, windy nights when fuel is scarce or fires are restricted. It’s ideal in leaf‑rich broadleaf woods, conifer belts with boughs, or near reedmace/cattails for thatch. Works best solo; build only as big as your body.

What you need

Use dead‑and‑down materials and aim for massive insulation.

• Ridgepole: Sturdy pole your body length plus 30–50 cm.
• A‑frame supports: Forked sticks or a stump/rock to prop the ridge.
• Ribs: Arm‑thick poles to lean at ~45° both sides.
• Insulation: Loads of dry leaves, grasses, bracken, conifer boughs, cattail/reedmace leaves, bark slabs from dead trees.
• Bed fill: Fine grass, dry leaves, pine bough tips.
• Door plug: Bundle of leaves/grass or your pack wrapped in debris.
• Cordage (optional): For quick lashings if forks aren’t perfect.

Step-by-step build

Keep the footprint narrow, the walls deep and the entrance small and leeward.

1. Site on slightly raised, free‑draining ground; clear sharp debris.
2. Set the ridge: rest one end on a forked stick/rock/stump, the other on the ground to form a short tunnel.
3. Lean ribs along the ridge both sides at ~45°, tight together; cross‑brace if needed.
4. Pile insulation from the bottom up, shingling and overlapping by a third. Aim for arm‑deep to thigh‑deep thickness for waterproofing and windproofing.
5. Build a springy bed 4–6 cm compacted (start thicker knowing it settles), with finer grass on top.
6. Make a fist‑sized vent near the head; keep the entrance just big enough to crawl through.
7. Stuff a dense door plug of leaves/grass at night to seal in heat.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Get landowner permission; adhere to local wild‑camping bylaws.
• No fires inside: Highly flammable—keep any fire outside and well away, or skip fires entirely.
• Materials: Use dead‑and‑down wood; don’t strip live bark. Avoid poisonous plants in bedding.
• Weather: Pitch leeward of prevailing wind; avoid hollows and dry stream beds that can flood.
• Leave No Trace: Dismantle, scatter debris, and restore the site on departure.

Visual to include

Cutaway sketch: short A‑frame tunnel with thick, overlapping debris skin (arm‑ to thigh‑deep), compacted leaf/grass bed inside, tiny leeward doorway with a stuffed door plug and a small head‑end vent.

8. Wickiup teepee (semi-permanent thatch shelter)

For longer stays, a wickiup (often called a wigwam in the east) is a dependable, semi‑permanent bushcraft shelter idea you can build from flexible poles and thick thatch. The domed frame sheds wind well, thick grass/cattail thatch or bark slabs make it waterproof, and the compact doorway keeps out wind‑driven rain. With correct ventilation and a smoke hole, some traditions used a small central fire—though many UK woods are safer with a fire just outside.

When to use it

Choose a wickiup when you’ll base up for several nights or weeks and have abundant polewood and thatching materials. It suits mixed woodland and reedbeds; go small and stout in stormy weather, and prioritise a tiny entrance if wind‑driven rain is expected.

What you need

Aim for a strong, elastic frame and overlapping, weatherproof skin.

• Flexible poles/saplings: For a circular frame; tops tied into a dome.
• Cross‑weavers: Extra poles to ring the dome and stiffen the frame.
• Thatching: Long grasses, bracken, conifer boughs, or cattail/reedmace leaves; overlap by about one‑third.
• Bark slabs (optional): From dead trees (e.g., poplar/cottonwood) to shingle sides/roof.
• Cordage: Natural fibre or paracord for lashings and thatch ties.
• Door flap: A bundled thatch panel or bark “curtain.”
• Ground insulation: Dry leaves, fine grasses, pine boughs.
• Tools (optional): Folding saw/knife; digging stick for shallow post holes.

Step-by-step build

Keep it low and tight for storms; build coverage from the bottom up like shingles.

1. Mark a circle just larger than your bed. Sink pole butts a few inches; bend and tie tops together to form a dome.
2. Add two or three horizontal rings of poles around the dome to stiffen and create tie‑off points.
3. Start thatching at ground level; tie bundles on so each course overlaps the one below by about a third for waterproofing.
4. Work upward, tightening as you go, and leave a small, leeward doorway. Keep panels thick for insulation and windproofing.
5. Create a simple drip edge by flaring the bottom course slightly outwards.
6. Inside, lay a springy bed: 4–6 cm compacted boughs/leaves topped with fine grass.
7. For fires: either fit a small, central fire with a controllable smoke hole/”cap” and ample ventilation, or place a small fire outside with a reflector wall to bounce heat in.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Permission & materials: Get landowner consent. Use dead‑and‑down wood and dead bark; avoid cutting live trees.
• Fire safety: Natural skins are flammable. If you do light a small central fire, ensure a proper smoke hole, strong ventilation and constant supervision; otherwise, keep fires outside. Never under rock overhangs.
• Weatherproofing: Thick thatch = warmer, drier. Make the doorway small and leeward to reduce wind‑driven rain.
• Leave No Trace: Protect bark with straps, keep lashings off living cambium, dismantle fully and scatter debris when you leave.

Visual to include

Three‑stage sketch: circular dome frame; horizontal rings added; bottom‑up overlapping thatch with a small leeward doorway and a marked smoke hole.

9. Fallen log or rootball shelter (use what’s there)

Storm has dropped a tree? That’s free structure you can turn into cover fast. A fallen trunk works as a ready‑made ridgepole; an uprooted root plate and its soil form an instant windbreak or back wall. This is one of the most efficient bushcraft shelter ideas because you’re borrowing shape and strength that already exist, saving time and energy.

When to use it

Use this when you find a fresh fall with solid wood, or an uprooted tree that leaves a hollow and a soil‑packed root plate. It’s ideal for quick overnights in mixed woodland, especially when rain and wind are moving in and you need a fast, low‑tool build.

What you need

Keep it simple and use dead‑and‑down materials at hand.

• Ridge/Wall: Fallen trunk or root plate.
• Rafters: Arm‑thick poles for a lean‑to roof.
• Cover: Boughs, bracken, dry grass, or bark slabs from dead trees.
• Bed: Dry leaves/fine grass for insulation.
• Cordage (optional): Quick lashings or toggles.

Step-by-step build

Work leeward of wind; think drainage and stability first.

1. Check the trunk/root plate is stable and not rotten; avoid tensioned limbs.
2. If using the trunk, lean rafters at ~45° to form a lean‑to roof.
3. If using the root plate, roof from plate to ground to cap the hollow.
4. Thatch bottom‑up, overlapping by a third; aim for a thick, tight skin.
5. Build a springy bed 4–6 cm compacted; keep the doorway small and leeward.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Permission: Get landowner consent; follow local wild camping and fire bylaws.
• Rot and hang‑ups: Avoid rotten logs and suspended (hung‑up) branches; watch for “widow‑makers.”
• Fires: Keep fires outside the shelter; never under rock overhangs; fully extinguish.
• Leave No Trace: Use dead‑and‑down wood, don’t strip live bark, dismantle and restore site.

Visual to include

Two sketches: (1) lean‑to roof off a fallen trunk; (2) root plate as back wall with a short roof sealing the hollow.

10. Rock overhang or cave (natural shelter with caution)

Rock overhangs and shallow caves can give you an instant roof and windbreak with almost no building, making them some of the quickest bushcraft shelter ideas. They also come with serious hazards: loose rock, damp floors, resident wildlife and a total ban on fires beneath the rock. Treat them as temporary covers you enhance, not places you remodel.

When to use it

Use an overhang or shallow cave when weather is closing in and you need fast protection from rain and wind with minimal kit. They’re best where the opening can face leeward and you’ve room to place a small fire a few feet outside to warm the space safely via reflection.

What you need

Bring just enough to insulate, block draughts and manage heat safely.

• Groundsheet/sleep mat: Cuts cold from the rock/soil.
• Insulation: Dry leaves, grass or boughs for a springy bed.
• Small tarp or mylar: As a wind door/curtain at the opening.
• Cordage + pegs/toggles: To rig a simple doorway or tie‑offs.
• Reflector materials: Logs or rocks to build a heat reflector outside.

Step-by-step build

Keep everything structural outside; inside is for sleeping only.

1. Inspect the roof and walls for cracks or loose blocks; avoid anything unstable.
2. Check for animal sign and standing water; pick the driest, leeward recess.
3. Sweep the floor; lay a groundsheet and build a 4–6 cm compacted insulation bed.
4. Rig a small tarp curtain across part of the mouth to reduce wind without sealing airflow.
5. Site a small, clean fire a few feet outside the opening; build a simple log/rock reflector opposite to bounce heat in.
6. Never light a fire under the overhang or inside a cave; enjoy reflected warmth instead and fully extinguish before sleep.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Get landowner permission; follow local bylaws on wild camping and open fires.
• Rock safety: Avoid loose roofs and “widow‑makers”; don’t chip or alter rock.
• Fires: Always outside the opening with a reflector; never under rock. Extinguish with water and cold‑hand check.
• Leave No Trace: Pack out litter, scatter natural bedding, and restore the site on departure.

Visual to include

Cross‑section: shallow overhang with insulated bed inside; outside, a small fire and a low log/rock reflector sending heat arrows into the shelter; clear “X” over any fire under the rock.

11. Raised bed platform with low roof (for wet ground)

Sodden leaf litter, seepage and boggy hollows will chill you fast. A raised bed platform lifts you out of the wet and lets air move beneath, while a low, tight roof sheds rain and blocks wind. It’s a dependable, low‑tool solution for damp UK woodland and streamside spots when a hammock isn’t an option.

When to use it

Pick this build when ground is wet, uneven or leeches heat, yet you have decent polewood and thatching or a tarp. It’s great for one to two nights in mixed woods, keeping you drier and warmer than sleeping on the deck, especially paired with a small fire and reflector outside.

What you need

Use dead‑and‑down wood and keep the structure compact and stout.

• Bed rails: Two straight poles (hip‑to‑ankle thick) to run head‑to‑toe.
• Sleepers: Short logs/rocks to lift rails off the ground.
• Slats/weave: Wrist‑thick cross slats plus springy boughs/bracken/grass.
• Roof frame: Ridgepole with rafters for a low lean‑to or A‑frame.
• Cover: Tarp for speed, or thick boughs/bracken/cattail leaves; overlap like shingles.
• Cordage + tree straps: Quick lashings and bark protection.
• Groundsheet/sleep mat: Extra insulation on the platform.
• Reflector materials (optional): Logs/rocks for a heat wall outside.

Step-by-step build

Keep it small, stiff and low; think drainage, drip and heat reflection.

1. Find slightly raised, free‑draining ground leeward of the wind; clear sharp debris.
2. Set two or three “sleepers” (short logs/rocks) sideways; lay the two long bed rails on top, parallel, shoulder‑width apart, and chock them stable.
3. Lash or wedge cross slats across the rails every hand‑width to form a firm deck.
4. Weave springy boughs/bracken over slats, then add a mat/groundsheet; aim for 4–6 cm compacted insulation.
5. Rig a low ridgepole (knee‑to‑thigh height) and lean rafters at ~45° to create a roof with the opening leeward.
6. Skin the roof: tarp pulled drum‑tight or natural thatch from the bottom up, overlapping by a third. Add a slight eave for a drip edge.
7. Keep the doorway small; set a small fire a few feet outside with a simple log/rock reflector to bounce heat at mattress height.
8. Re‑tension after a shower; add more thatch/insulation as materials settle.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Obtain landowner permission; follow local wild camping and fire bylaws.
• Low impact: Use dead‑and‑down wood; don’t cut live trees or strip bark. Protect trunks with straps.
• Structure: Test platform before use; avoid heavy loads and keep spans short to prevent collapse.
• Fires: Always outside; never under rock overhangs. Fully extinguish with water and cold‑hand check.
• Water: Stay well above streams and out of hollows; no trenching—choose a better site instead.
• Leave No Trace: Dismantle, scatter materials and restore the spot when you depart.

Visual to include

Cutaway: short platform on sleepers with cross slats and woven bough “mattress,” low lean‑to roof shingled bottom‑up, small outside fire with a log/rock reflector aimed at bed height.

12. Quinzee snow shelter (pile and hollow)

A quinzee is a “make your own drift”: pile up snow, let it harden, then hollow it into a warm, windproof den. It’s safer than tunnelling into unknown drifts, and if you keep the build compact with smooth walls and a dry bed, it can feel surprisingly cosy in freezing UK conditions.

When to use it

Choose a quinzee in settled sub‑zero conditions with at least knee‑deep snow where you can safely pile and shape—think high moor or Scottish hill corries away from avalanche terrain. It’s ideal when natural resources are buried and a fire isn’t practical or permitted.

What you need

Keep tools simple and prioritise dryness and safety.

• Shovel/snow shovel: For piling and digging.
• Gloves/spare layers: Stay dry while working; avoid sweating.
• Short sticks (gauges): 15–30 cm (6–12 in) to mark wall thickness.
• Ground insulation: Foam mat, pine boughs, dry grass/cattail leaves if found.
• Head torch/whistle: For safe working and comms.

Step-by-step build

Pile, set, hollow, then finish smooth and insulated.

1. Stamp a firm base on slightly raised, safe ground away from cornices and gullies.
2. Heap snow into a rounded mound at least 1.5–2 m high; bigger mound = more work. Pack as you go.
3. Let it “set” for 60–120 minutes so the snow bonds.
4. Push gauge sticks all over the dome so 15–30 cm remains when you dig toward them.
5. Cut a small door on the leeward side; dig out the chamber, keeping a slightly raised sleeping platform and a lower step by the door to trap cold air.
6. Smooth the ceiling so melt runs down the walls, not onto you; add a small vent hole in the roof (thumb‑to‑fist size).
7. Lay 4–6 cm of compacted insulation on the bed, topped with a mat. Keep the doorway small; block loosely with your pack at night (never airtight).

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access & rules: Get landowner permission; follow local wild‑camping guidance. Fires are not for snow shelters—skip them here.
• Avalanche & cornices: Avoid lee‑slope accumulations, run‑outs and undercut cornices. Choose benign terrain.
• Stay dry: Work steadily to prevent sweat; stash spare layers dry and change before bedding down, as advised by seasoned practitioners.
• Ventilation: Maintain a roof vent and never seal the entrance. Check the roof after snowfall and re‑open the vent if needed.
• Leave No Trace: Collapse the quinzee on departure so it doesn’t become a hazard, and tidy any debris.

Visual to include

Cutaway dome: gauge sticks showing uniform wall thickness, small leeward doorway with lower “cold well,” raised sleeping platform with insulation, smooth arched ceiling and a small roof vent.

13. Hammock and tarp camp (for sloped or boggy sites)

When ground is soaked, lumpy or sloping, a hammock and tarp camp keeps you warm, dry and off the mess. It’s fast to pitch, needs minimal site prep and works brilliantly in UK woods where flat, free‑draining spots are scarce. Pair the hammock with proper under‑insulation and a tight tarp and you’ve got a dependable all‑weather setup.

When to use it

Reach for this on steep banks, over bracken or tussocks, beside wet trails, or anywhere you can’t find a good sleeping platform. It excels in mixed woodland and hedgerows, handles shifting winds with a low, tight tarp, and is ideal for quick overnights or foul‑weather escapes.

What you need

• Hammock with tree‑friendly straps: Wide webbing to protect bark.
• Tarp (≈3×3 m or rectangular): For an A‑frame or diamond pitch.
• Under‑insulation: Underquilt or a foam/sleeping mat to stop heat loss.
• Cordage/ridgeline: For tarp and fine tensioning.
• Stakes/pegs or sticks: To guy out corners.
• Bug net (seasonal): Comfort in midge season.

Step-by-step build

Keep it tree‑safe, low and tight in wind, with good drainage underfoot.

1. Pick two healthy trees a few paces apart; avoid dead limbs overhead.
2. Wrap straps at an appropriate height; clip in the hammock with a comfortable sag.
3. Run a tarp ridgeline above the hammock; face the opening leeward.
4. Pitch the tarp low and drum‑tight (A‑frame or diamond) for rain and wind.
5. Fit your underquilt or place a mat inside the hammock to cut convective chill.
6. Add a small gear line under the tarp; adjust tension after the first shower.

UK tips: permissions, fire and safety

• Access: Get landowner permission and follow local wild‑camping and fire bylaws.
• Tree care: Use wide straps; never screw or nail into living trees; remove all cordage on exit.
• Fires: Keep any fire well outside the tarp; never under rock overhangs; fully extinguish with water and a cold‑hand check.
• Site safety: Avoid flood‑prone gullies, rising streams and “widow‑makers”; keep a tidy, low‑impact footprint.

Visual to include

Side profile: hammock slung between two trees with wide straps, low A‑frame tarp above, underquilt shown beneath, small outside fire with a simple log/rock reflector positioned well clear of the tarp.

Before you head out

That’s your UK bushcraft shelter toolbox. Pick two or three builds to practise until they’re second nature, then adapt on site: pitch small, face leeward, overlap thatch bottom‑up and always put more insulation under you than over you. Check access and local bylaws before you camp, keep any fire outside the shelter (never under rock), use dead‑and‑down materials, protect live bark with straps, and dismantle, scatter and restore the spot before you leave.

A compact shelter kit makes life easier: a 3×3 tarp, 10–15 m paracord, a handful of pegs, wide tree straps, mat/under‑insulation, an emergency blanket and a reliable lighter, plus a small saw. If you need solid, great‑value gear, kit up at Take a Hike UK — free delivery over £50 and friendly support 8am–8pm, Mon–Sat.